HOW TO FLUSH A HOT WATER HEATER

​Has your water heater recently been flushed? The removal of silt that builds up on the tank's bottom is an essential task that needs to be completed at least once a year. This is particularly valid if you reside in a region with hard water. Because it's out of sight, it's simple to overlook the task, but accumulated silt lowers your water heater's heating performance and increases your costs. In this article, we discuss about how to flush a hot water heater?

Tools Required For Flushed Water Heater

1- 4-in-1 screwdriver 2- Adjustable wrench 3- Bucket 4- Hacksaw 5- Hammer 6- Knee pads 7- Plumbers tape 8- Rags 9- Shop vacuum 10- Slip joint pliers

Materials Required For Flush A Hot Water Heater

1- 1-1/4-in. x 1-1/2-in. female PVC trap adapter 2- 2" brass nipple 3- 24-in. piece of 1/2-in. I.D. vinyl tubing 4- 3/4-in. MIP x 1/2-in. barb fitting 5- 3/4-in. x 3-in. nipple 6- Brass ball valve 7- Brass elbow 8- Dielectric nipple 9- Garden hose adapter 10- Shop vacuum hose adapter

​You can be in for an unpleasant surprise if you haven't flushed your hot water heater in a long time or if you haven't done so in years due to sediment buildup. Your water heater may be making a popping or rumbling noise, which could be an indication of excessive sediment buildup. That sounds like steam bubbles rising through the dirt. Sediment builds up hot areas on a gas water heater, which can harm the tank and lead to an early failure. Sediment accumulation on an electric water heater might lead to the bottom heating element failing. Thus, maintaining your hot water heater will save energy costs and increase its lifespan. Learn how to empty and flush your water heater.

How to Flush a Water Heater: Step by Step Guide

1:- Install a Shop Vacuum Adaptor

Attach a female PVC trap adapter (B) to a 1-1/2-inch PVC x 3/4-inch FIP adapter (A) using glue.
Note: You may now attach your shop vacuum to 3/4-inch pipes with this. Vinyl tubing with a 1/2-inch I.D. is connected to the barbed fitting (C).

2:- Drain the Liquid of Water Heater

• To cut off the water heater's electricity, turn off the gas or flip the circuit breaker.
• To lower the water temperature in the tank, open a hot water faucet someplace else in the house and run it nonstop for ten minutes or so.
• Close the tank's top cold water valve, then connect a garden hose to the drain valve already there and run it to a floor drain.
• Open the water heater drain valve and the hot water faucet nearest to it, ideally on an upper floor.
• Drain the tank until the sediment blocks the valve, thereby lowering the flow.
• Shut off the water heater's drain valve and the hot water faucet.
• Place the vacuum adapter in place after removing the temperature-pressure release valve.
• Turn on the vacuum and attach the shop vacuum hose.
  

3:- Take Out the Old Valve

Turn the plastic nut beneath the knob to unscrew and remove the valve while using a shop vacuum to apply suction through the TPR port.
Expert advice: If it breaks off, use a hacksaw blade to cut the fractured section until you reach the metal threads. Then chip out the fragments using a screwdriver and hammer.

4:- Put the New Valve

Take off the ball valve's handle to make room for all of the 3/4-inch fittings.
A 3/4-inch full-port brass ball valve with threaded ends, a 3-inch x 3/4-inch galvanized nipple, and a 3/4-inch MIP x G.H. garden hose adapter (the BrassCraft/Plumbshop No. HU22-12-12TP is one option) are needed to build a new drain valve.

Note: The sediment will probably clog the drain valve as soon as you open it, making it impossible for you to completely close the valve after the water has been emptied. After that, you'll have a leaking water heater and sediment accumulation. An ancient drain will not only clog, but its tiny aperture will prevent debris from being sucked through. For this reason, a new drain valve needs to be constructed.  

5:- Install the New Valve

Close the new full-port valve after installation.
The garden hose should have one end attached to the valve and the other end running into a colander placed over the floor drain.

6:- Flush the Tank

Flush the tank after removing the vacuum hose from the TPR port.
Pro tip: The full-port valve will allow the majority of the silt to be flushed out. Short bursts of opening the cold water valve at the top of the tank will shoot the remaining contents toward the drain.
Until the water runs clear, let it run.

7:- Suck Out the Sediment

After removing the full-port valve, use your shop vacuum adapter and 1/2-inch vinyl tubing to remove any leftover silt.
Once you're done, remove the lever handle to avoid unintentional opening and close the ball valve.
After that, replace the blow-off tube and TPR valve.

8:- Refill the Water Heater

• Fill the water heater again.
  
• Activate the electricity or gas.